12/06/2025
The Cambridgeshire village of Stilton has recently hosted a cheese rolling festival where the main event involves fancy-dress clad teams competing to roll a 30cm section of telegraph pole, painted to look like the famous cheese along a course through the village Stilton. But interestingly, no cheese which can be called Stilton is, or legally can be made in the village Stilton. Why? The answer lies in a powerful intellectual property right: the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO).
Whilst historians claim that Stilton Cheese originated and obtained its name from the village Stilton in the 18th century[1], in order for cheese manufacturers to use the name Stilton, it must be made in one of three English counties- Derbyshire, Leicestershire or Nottinghamshire. This rule dates back to 1996, when the Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association applied to the European Commission to obtain protected designation of origin (PDO) status for Stilton Blue Cheese. This protection has been maintained under UK law post Brexit. There is also a PDO for Stilton White Cheese.
A PDO dictates that in order for a product to use a name protected by the PDO, the product must be produced, processed and prepared in a particular geographical area and according to specific recipes. Both types of Stilton for example must have a minimum fat content of 48%. Multiple other UK cheeses have PDO status – Single Gloucester[2], Dovedale[3] and Exmoor Blue[4] to name just a few. The purpose of PDO’s isn’t to just preserve reputation—it protects local economies and food culture.
This is one of those deliciously British contradictions: the place that gave Stilton its name can’t legally produce it. The villagers of Stilton will have to stick to rolling fake wheels of cheese—while actual production takes place in counties further north.
This is a reminder that PDOs (and the similar Protected Geographical Indication (PGI)) are powerful tools in shaping what gets made, where, and how it’s labelled. For artisan producers or regional economies, they offer a legal framework to preserve identity, uphold quality, and support tourism—even if, ironically, the cheese can’t always go back to where it came from.
This article is for general information only. Its content is not a statement of the law on any subject and does not constitute advice. Please contact Reddie & Grose LLP for advice before taking any action in reliance on it.
[1] Stilton Cheese and it’s history
[2] The Making of Single Gloucester
[3] Hartington Dovedale Blue PDO -Mini 5 X 200g – Michael Lee Fine Cheeses
